I just laid out a few pieces of hard maple about 1" thick after planing, drum sanding, etc. to get them straight and square. No we wait...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
| Official Luthiers Forum! http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/ |
|
| Heat straightening a fretboard http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=44443 |
Page 1 of 1 |
| Author: | absrec [ Tue Oct 28, 2014 6:47 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Heat straightening a fretboard |
I re sawed a piece of 8/4 rosewood into fretboards. They all bowed quite a bit. I did what I could with a drum sander but it's getting to the point where they are all close to the .25"-.28" range and some as thin as .22". Question... Would using the heating blanket I use for bending sides be able to straighten these boards? I mean wrapping theme up the same way with a spritz or two of water and clamping them to my bench for a couple days after applying 250-300 degrees for 15-20 minutes. Anyone ever done this? |
|
| Author: | Tom West [ Tue Oct 28, 2014 7:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
At these dimensions if the bow is length wise with no twist I don't think you will have much of a problem after fret slots are cut. You will most likely be able to easily hold it in place on the neck with finger pressure. Tom |
|
| Author: | absrec [ Tue Oct 28, 2014 7:22 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
Tom West wrote: At these dimensions if the bow is length wise with no twist I don't think you will have much of a problem after fret slots are cut. You will most likely be able to easily hold it in place on the neck with finger pressure. Tom Excellent point! I suppose I'm just being overly cautious. It's for a neck I'm building for somebody.The first one turned out to have a problem with the truss rod channel so I decided to make it again. Just trying to alleviate any possible future issues. |
|
| Author: | Josh H [ Tue Oct 28, 2014 7:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
I've used heating blankets to flatten backs and sides that had warped a bit. I sprayed them lightly with water and clamped the wood and the blanket between 2 pieces of thick plywood. I would heat the wood to 250-300 and leave the heat on for 5 minutes or a little longer. Let the wood fully cool before removing it from the clamps. Leave it overnight if you have the time. |
|
| Author: | absrec [ Thu Oct 30, 2014 9:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
I must have gotten some funky wood. All of it is bowing and twisting in every direction. I made another neck, ended up having to take it apart, clean it up and and reglue it because it was back-bowed about .011"-.012". I guess the fretboard was cupped badly because after running it through the drum sander, it ended up being narrow compared to the neck's core. Basically it was too small. Also, when I glued it back up, I purposely put a shim under the caul at the midpoint of the fretboard in a effort to counteract the back bow that was happening. After I took the clamps off, it was still back-bowed about .010". It's getting to be a bit maddening. |
|
| Author: | meddlingfool [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 1:53 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
.010 back ow is a non issue IMO. A 2 way rod should take of that. |
|
| Author: | wbergman [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 4:38 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
I have clamped between steel plates in the oven. The heated wood becomes pliable and, after cooling between the clamped plates, it sets flat and stays that way. Do not heat wood if there is any wax on the ends. |
|
| Author: | Tom West [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:01 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
Aaron: Just reread your post and see your cutting fingerboards from 2" stock. I would be inclined to wait a while before using especially if you don't have a way to measure the moisture in the boards. Also do you measure and control the RH in your shop? Tom |
|
| Author: | absrec [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:03 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
meddlingfool wrote: .010 back ow is a non issue IMO. A 2 way rod should take of that. I hear ya. I'm using a one way rod though. The issue is that the one way rod is very specific as far as depth and the core is only a hair above its final thickness. Not enough wood to straighten it out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
| Author: | absrec [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:04 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
wbergman wrote: I have clamped between steel plates in the oven. The heated wood becomes pliable and, after cooling between the clamped plates, it sets flat and stays that way. Do not heat wood if there is any wax on the ends. How hot and for how long? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
| Author: | absrec [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
I did wait some time but they are all bowed to some extent. At a point, you only have so much thickness left. I suppose my mistake was trying to get that extra fretboard out of the stock. I hate to waste wood but sometimes it gives you no choice. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
| Author: | absrec [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 10:11 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
I just laid out a few pieces of hard maple about 1" thick after planing, drum sanding, etc. to get them straight and square. No we wait... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
|
| Author: | wbergman [ Fri Oct 31, 2014 11:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Heat straightening a fretboard |
I do not recall exactly how hot or how long. I am sure that I do this hotter and longer than necessary. I think any temperature that would be hot enough to bend sides would be hot enough, as long as you leave it in the oven long enough to completely penetrate. I think anything below charring temperature is safe. Although I did spritz the surface, I do not know if that is necessary. I also wrapped the wood loosely with a layer of aluminum foil (ends open) just to protect the steel plates from sap building up on them. I recall that at least some of the time I preheated the steel plates in the oven, which requires appropriate gloves. I used large C-clamps. The heat may accelerate rusting. So, I am guessing I heated to about 350F. let them cook a few hours, then turned the oven off and waited until the next day to remove--but, as I said, I think this was longer and hotter than necessary. |
|
| Page 1 of 1 | All times are UTC - 5 hours |
| Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group http://www.phpbb.com/ |
|